Metro Builders
Florida · Homeowner guide

Wind mitigation inspections, explained by roofers

How Florida's wind mitigation inspection (form OIR-B1-1802, Rev. 04/26) works, the seven things it records, and what to fix on your roof to earn bigger insurance discounts.

By the Metro Builders team · Updated October 2026

If you own a home in Florida, one two-page form has more say over your windstorm premium than almost anything else: the Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form, OIR-B1-1802. Here's what it records, what changed in 2026, and which roof decisions move the number.

What the inspection is

A wind mitigation inspection documents the construction features that help a home resist hurricane-force wind. Florida insurers are required to offer premium credits for those features, and the 1802 form is how they verify them. The inspector photographs each item; the insurer applies the credits.

The seven things on the form

  1. Building code — whether the home was permitted under the Florida Building Code (2002 or later) or meets the South Florida code.
  2. Roof covering — the type of covering and whether it has product approval and a permit date that meets current code.
  3. Roof deck attachment — how the plywood or OSB is nailed to the trusses. The form records the weakest attachment found.
  4. Roof-to-wall attachment — toe nails, clips, single wraps or double wraps. Again, the weakest connection sets the rating.
  5. Roof geometry — hip roofs score best; gables catch more wind.
  6. Secondary water resistance (SWR) — a sealed roof deck that keeps water out if the shingles or tiles blow off.
  7. Opening protection — impact-rated windows, doors, garage doors or shutters on every opening.

What changed in 2026

A revised form, OIR-B1-1802 (Rev. 04/26), became mandatory for inspections on April 1, 2026. The biggest change is that roof-to-wall connections can now be credited on tested uplift capacity — not only on what the connector looks like — when a qualified inspector verifies it in the field and the insurer accepts it. If your last report is on the old form, ask your agent whether a new inspection would change your credits.

Where the roof decisions come in

Three items on the form are decided the day your roof is replaced: deck attachment, secondary water resistance and the roof covering itself. A re-roof is the cheapest moment you'll ever have to upgrade them, because the deck is already exposed:

  • Re-nail the deck to current code with ring-shank nails at tighter spacing.
  • Install a sealed roof deck (taped seams or a full self-adhered underlayment) for SWR credit.
  • Use a covering with Florida product approval, installed to the manufacturer's high-wind specification.
  • Keep the permit, product approval numbers and photos of the deck before it was covered — the inspector will ask.

Roof-to-wall straps and opening protection usually aren't part of a re-roof, but if you're considering them, the My Safe Florida Home program may help pay (see our guide).

Who can do the inspection

The form must be signed by a qualified professional — the list includes licensed home inspectors with wind-mitigation training, building code inspectors, Florida-licensed general, building and residential contractors, engineers and architects. Your insurer can tell you whose reports it accepts.

Common questions

How long is a wind mitigation report good for?

Reports are generally accepted for up to five years as long as nothing material about the home changes. A new roof is a material change — get a new report after a re-roof so your credits reflect it.

Does a new roof automatically lower my premium?

Not automatically. The insurer needs a current 1802 form showing the new roof's permit date, deck attachment and secondary water resistance.

Which form version should my inspector use?

Since April 1, 2026, inspectors must use OIR-B1-1802 (Rev. 04/26).

This guide is general information from a licensed contractor, not legal or insurance advice. Rules change — check the official source linked above before you rely on it.